Getting Sharp Photographs in Low Light

Getting Sharp Photographs in Low Light

Some of the most beautiful wildlife encounters happen when the light is at its weakest.

Before sunrise.

Immediately after sunset.

Under heavy cloud.

Or when an animal disappears beneath trees and bushes.

These are also the conditions where photographers often struggle to produce sharp images.

The natural reaction is usually:

I need to keep the ISO low.

In wildlife photography, that can be exactly the wrong priority.

Motion blur is difficult to repair

Modern editing software is remarkably good at dealing with image noise.

It is considerably less successful at repairing a photograph that is blurred because the shutter speed was too slow.

That is why, in low light, I normally protect shutter speed before worrying about ISO.

If the camera needs ISO 3200, 6400 or occasionally higher to obtain the photograph, I am generally happy to let it.

A sharp photograph with some noise is usually far more useful than a clean but blurred photograph.

Know what is moving

There are actually two separate problems.

Camera movement and subject movement.

Image stabilisation can be very effective at reducing movement caused by the photographer.

But stabilisation cannot stop a leopard turning its head.

The only thing that freezes subject movement is sufficient shutter speed.

This distinction is important.

You may be able to photograph a completely stationary elephant at 1/250 sec.

That doesn't mean 1/250 sec will be sufficient when it starts walking.

My starting point

In poor light with relatively static wildlife, I may begin somewhere around 1/640 to 1/1000 sec, depending on focal length and the situation.

If the animal is active, I increase shutter speed.

I normally use a relatively wide aperture and let Auto ISO accommodate the remaining exposure.

Again, these are starting points rather than rules.

Use support where possible

A beanbag is one of the most useful accessories on safari.

Resting a long lens on a stable support reduces fatigue and allows you to hold the camera much more steadily.

If shooting handheld, good technique becomes increasingly important as light falls.

I try to keep my elbows reasonably close to my body and avoid holding the camera at awkward angles for long periods.

Don't underexpose unnecessarily

There is a temptation in low light to deliberately underexpose an image to keep ISO down and then brighten it later.

That is not always helpful.

Lifting a heavily underexposed RAW file can reveal significant noise.

Where possible, I would rather capture a sensible exposure in camera.

Protect highlights, certainly, but don't be frightened of allowing the camera to use the ISO it needs.

Focus carefully

Low light also makes autofocus work harder.

Contrast is reduced and grass or branches can interfere with subject detection.

I watch the focus point carefully, especially around an animal's eye.

If autofocus is struggling, I may switch autofocus area or use a more controlled focusing method rather than repeatedly firing and hoping.

Take short bursts

When conditions are difficult, I will often shoot a short sequence rather than a single frame.

Tiny differences in movement can mean one photograph is noticeably sharper than the others.

This doesn't mean holding the shutter down continuously for minutes.

Usually a short, controlled burst is enough.

Noise isn't the enemy

Photographers can become obsessed with looking at images at 100% magnification.

The viewer will normally experience your photograph very differently.

They will notice the animal.

The expression.

The light.

The moment.

They are unlikely to be examining individual pixels.

If increasing ISO allows me to capture that moment sharply, it has done its job.